About this item:
5.0 out of 5
100.00% of customers are satisfied
5.0 out of 5 stars Fast, Accurate, Easy
The Creality K1, K1C, and this K1 SE Early essentially the same printer with some minor differences. This is by far the best 3D printer I've ever owned and has been a breeze to print with. I can get it connected wirelessly and manage all my prints from my devices. I opted to also purchase the add-on camera which I will install later.Prints are fast, the adhesion has been great, and The quality of the printed objects has been phenomenal, the supports have also been really easy to remove.My only complaint is that the printer is silent when you turn it on, but after it finishes a print, there is a fan inside the machine that never shuts off and can get a little irritating. Also, since coming from an Elegoo printer, I miss the direct extrusion and the creality machine is a pain to load and unload. It wastes far too much filament getting it out of the tubing.All in all, this barebones system saves me $200 on what is essentially is the same printer as the K1C. I won't be able to print carbon fiber, but that's a non-issue for me personally. This thing really was plug and play right out of the box.
5.0 out of 5 stars Simple to set up, amazing print quality after a little tuning. Does have thermal runaway.
The media could not be loaded. While I am fairly familiar with 3D printers, this is my first. Creality makes some of the most popular budget 3D printers - there's even 2 subs on Reddit (Creality and CR10), and the CR-10S and Ender 3 are both listed in the recommended models for hobbyist grade printers. As a result. there's a huge community of users, lots of upgrades, tons of YouTube videos to answer any questions.The CR-10S came *very* well packaged - even though the box had seen some rough handling, everything inside was perfect. It took perhaps 30 minutes total to set everything up. Then I found an issue - the print head carriage was quite wobbly on the X-Rail. One YouTube video later I found the eccentric adjuster, but concluded that the plate was actually a bit curved - I assume this happened when they pressed the nuts into the back side. Fortunately it was really only about 10 minutes to remove the part and flatten it, after which it fit perfectly. I also tightened 2 eccentric nuts on the Y-axis. The X and Y belts were plenty tight so no other adjustments needed.In zeroing the plate, I found that there is interaction between the adjusters. What this means is that you need to go through them several times in order to get the plate truly flat. Total time now was perhaps an hour or so. I spent perhaps another 15 minutes disconnecting and reconnecting the wires so that they were bundled in a nice, neat manner, then I was ready to print.The CR-10S comes with a small roll of PLA, and the included Micro USB has a G-Code file for a "Maneki-Neko" cat. You can get anything as a STL file, but you need to convert it to G-Code with a slicer, and I was impatient. This printed out perfectly (see pictures) Very impressed with the print quality.The CR-10S includes some colored plastic trim to decorate the rails. As it turns out, you can't install this on the left Z rail and the X rail as there are screws that will interfere. Not a big deal, but they should have made the plastic trim just another couple of mm lower so this wasn't an issue.Overall, very impressed. One thing to consider is that this printer uses a Bowden tube so printing elastomeric material is an issue.
5.0 out of 5 stars Good printer, large build volume. Good for PLA with stock setup.
I ordered this printer in April 2018. This is not my first printer, so I am familiar with 3d printing and have been at it for several years. I decided to get this printer because I heard a lot of positive things about it, and it has a large build area.Overall this printer is pretty good for the price. I would recommend it, except for one critical issue (that I am hoping is remedied). The printer that I received has a "fatal flaw" because of a bad capacitor on the motherboard. The 5v regulation on the motherboard has a high ripple. This is because Creality used the wrong type of capacitor on the most recent motherboards (v2 and v2.1). What this means: you will see the temperature reading vary from 3-5 C when you are printing, and even a bit (1-2C) when you are sitting idle. When printing under 220, the printer will still print ok, though you may see some variation in your layers due to the temperature oscillation. Another real concern is when you try to print above 230C (which is required for filaments like ABS or PETG) . My board can't even heat over 230 C because of this capacitor issue. If you google "CR 10S temperature issue" you can learn more about this.I am attempting to get a replacement board from the seller who I bought through on Bolo. They have asked me for a video of the problem. The seller claims to be in touch with the manufacturer (Creality) so I am hopeful I'll get a replacement. If I do get a replacement board, I will come back and update my review. I'm hoping this issue gets resolved, and I believe Creality will eventually start shipping printers with the correct capacitor, possibly in version 2.2 once that is released. My recommendation would be to double check that the issue has been resolved before buying this printer, unless you only plan on printing PLA or don't mind the hassle of getting a replacement board and opening up the case.Apart from the above issue, the printer is very good. The quality of prints are excellent even with the stock hot end/extruder. I've successfully printed PLA, Flex (TPU), and TPEE. You can also do a lot of small upgrades that will make the printer work a lot better. For example: add a Capricorn tubing so you can print flexible filaments easier. You can also upgrade to a "drop in" all metal extruder like a microswiss or a genuine e3d v6 (custom mounts are required) if you want to print higher temp filaments. I also recommend getting a nice build surface, like BuildTak. I picked up a 3 pack of "Athorbot" build sheets, which is just like BuildTak, but a lot cheaper- it is working great.People have reported issues with warped glass beds. My glass bed turned out to be fine. I used a dial indicator gauge to check my bed for variation, and it was quite flat. If your bed is not flat, you can get a 6 pack of mirror tile (12x12") for very cheap as a replacement.One other thing that I'd like to point out is around safety. I don't recommend printing over 210 C with the stock setup. This is because the PFTE tube (bowden tube) goes all the way into the hot end, through the heat block right up to the nozzle. This design is actually really good for constraining the path of the filament, but unfortunately that has a dangerous side effect. After 210C, the PFTE tube will begin to release toxic gasses that can be harmful to pets (especially pet birds). After 240 C the stock PFTE will deform and cause you printer to jam. Capricorn tubing will allow you to print up to 300C, but you will still have toxic off gassing.If you are just printing PLA, the stock setup is great. If you want to do much more than that (PETG, ABS, Flexibles, etc.) you should consider upgrading, and will need to make sure you have a good motherboard.Update: a few weeks after I requested a replacement board, the seller was able to send me one. I’m very pleased and the issue I had is no longer a problem! Raised my review to 5 stars because everything seems to be working great now.
Super Impressora!
Ótima qualidade, resultados excelentes obtido com ela! Super recomendada!
Muito bom
Muito bom sem o que reclamar
Fiabilidad
The media could not be loaded. Es la primera vez que hago impresiones 3D, y he tenido buena experiencia con esta impresora, recomiendo usar su laminador de la marca, ya que la configuración es casi automática, es más rápida y quedan con mejor acabado sin tener que hacer muchos ajustes.Se calienta rápido, así que no esperas mucho para poder imprimir, al tener extrusor directo ayuda para materiales como ptu. En fin, no la piensen tanto, es buena
Muy buen producto
Excelente producto. Muy buena para iniciar, es intuitiva y fácil de usar, más si ya has tenido contacto con impresoras 3d.
Boa impressora para ingressar no universo da impressão 3D
A montagem não chega a ser complicada, mas, o manual não ajuda como deveria, sendo interessante recorrer a videos do youtube para evitar algum transtorno de erro na montagem. O sistema não funcionou ao ser ligada (tela azul no display). Considerei a possibilidade de devolução, mas, ao ver alguns videos no Youtube (de novo), achei algo que parecia ser uma possibilidade de solução e tente. Funcionou. A partir daí, não tive mais problemas e tenho conseguido bons resultados com as impressões em si.
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BHD31575
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Product origin: United States
Electrical items shipped from the US are by default considered to be 120v, unless stated otherwise in the product description. Contact Bolo support for voltage information of specific products. A step-up transformer is required to convert from 120v to 240v. All heating electrical items of 120v will be automatically cancelled.
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